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Natural Deodorant Review

Posted in Natural Deodorant by Administrator on the August 16th, 2009

Recently, one of the product testers, Jackie Lynn Samples, of 2 Virgo Designs, posted a review of Herbal Natures natural deodorant on her blog.  Jump on over and see what she has to say about the product sample she received and take a peek at some of her doggie soaps! http://2virgosdesigns.blogspot.com/2009/08/naturally-sweet.html

Thanks Jackie!

How I Make Liquid Soap – Body Wash

Posted in General, Natural Soaps by Administrator on the August 1st, 2009

 

A stainless crock pot with a removable ceramic liner and 2 large stainless steel stock pots are my mainstays for the liquid soap making process. (Fig 1) 

Fiq 1 - Mainstay pots for liquid soap making

Fiq 1 - Mainstay pots for liquid soap making

Using my favorite recipe, which has been carefully calculated for the proper amount of distilled water, lye (potassium hydroxide), and hard/soft oils I weigh out the distilled water and lye first.  Don’t be alarmed, all soap making requires a type of lye in order to produce soap, but the finished product does not contain any active lye. The lye is sprinkled over the water and allowed to dissolve while I measure out the hard/soft oils required and add the oils to the crock pot. The oils are heated to melt temperature and the lye water is added to the oils and mixed. 

The water/oil mixture will begin to “trace” and thicken. It will begin to look like what is often called vanilla pudding. The next stage the mixture will move into is what looks like applesauce and is commonly referred to as the “applesauce stage”.  As the mixture continues to cook, it will begin to look like you are making mashed potatoes. The final stage of the cooking process, which may take several hours, is what is referred to in the soaping world as the “Vaseline” stage because it actually resembles gooey Vaseline.

Figure 2 - the vaseline transparent stage

Figure 2 - the vaseline transparent stage

 

As the pots are heating, I measure out the dilution water and heat it separately. To the heated dilution water, I add Hydroxyethyl Cellulose (HEC) and vegetable glycerin, then mix until the heated water and HEC become a clear gel. This clear gel is added to the smaller stainless pot and the transparent soap paste is then added (Fig 2).  I choose to use HEC, which is a thickener widely used in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic industry, because each batch of liquid soap will consistently remain the same thickness, or viscosity.
Figure 2 - transparent soap paste in gel

Figure 2 - transparent soap paste in gel

The smaller stainless pot is covered and when the water inside the larger pot has heated to almost boiling, the heat is reduced or shut off under the larger pot. I check the inside pot regularly and give it a little stir now and then. The dilution phase will take several hours to complete.  When the soap paste has completely dissolved, (Fig 3) I will then add a preservative, and/or coloring, and scents.

Figure 3 - completely dissolved and finished liquid soap
Figure 3 – completely dissolved and finished liquid soap

Melanie McCullough 7/31/09 – all rights reserved

 

 

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